Herbaceous
Peony Planting
and Care
SITE SELECTION: Choose
a location in full
sun, or at least
six hours of sun,
to insure vigorous
blooms. Plant in
an area with very
good drainage. Standing
water will suffocate
the roots and is
the leading cause
of plant failure.
Raised beds or planting
on a slope are ideal.
In a few years, your
peony will become
a large green, perennial
bush with a height
of 36 in. so allow
a space of about
3-4 feet between
other permanent plantings.
Annuals or perennials
and bulbs can be
inter-planted with
intersectional peonies
while they are young.
PLANTING
DIRECTIONS: Keep
the roots shaded
and slightly
moist until planting.
Herbaceous peonies
prefer a humus
rich, sandy loam
with a pH of
6.5 to 7.0. Finished
compost and lime
are two amendments
that are always
useful to most
soils. A very
heavy clay soil
will also require
the addition
of sand for drainage.
The site you
prepare should
have good soil
at least 18” deep
and 2 ft. in
diameter. Herbaceous
peonies have
fleshy tuberous
roots with buds
or “eyes” that
are planted buds
up, NO MORE than
two inches below
ground level.
Mound the soil and extend the roots. Mix two oz. Of Neptune's Harvest with
two gallons of water and "mud in" plant to prevent any air pockets
at the roots. Deep planting impedes flowering, so be careful to check that
the plant has not sunk below this level as you water in your plant. After the
ground freezes, mulch well with six inches of leaves or other material for
winter protection. In most climates, this heavy mulching is only necessary
the first season to prevent heaving.
IN
THE SPRING: Remove
the mulch slowly
when danger of
frost is past.
Fertilize with
1 oz. to one
gal. fish/seaweed
emulsion every
two-three weeks
for maximum growth.
It is best to “deadhead” any
spent flowers.
Water only when
the soil feels
dry 6” below
the surface.
Water at the
base of plant,
not sprinkling
on the leaves.
It is important
to have porous
soil. Wet roots
lead to decay
and is the most
common cause
of plant death, so
do not over water.
In areas of wet,
very cool springs,
it is a best
to treat the
emerging buds
with a biodegradable
copper solution
such as Soap
Shield (available
from Garden’s
Alive 812-537-8650)
or Basicop, sold
in many garden
centers. This
simple preventative
treatment will
prevent fungus
and black spotting
on the leaves.
SUPPORTING
PEONIES: To
support large
clumps of peonies,
lay a flat piece
of 2”chicken
wire, cut to
a size of about
2 ft. x 2 ft.,
carefully over
the new red shoots
in spring. This
has to be done
early in the
season, as soon
as the shoots
emerge from the
ground. Adjust
chIcken wire
to allow one
shoot to go into
one cell of the
wire. As the
shoots grow taller,
the chIcken wire
will lift up
and be a part
of the growing
plant, settling
under the foliage.
Fold down the
edges of the
wire under foliage
so it is not
visible. This
will support
the stems, and
keep the plant
more upright.
FALL
CARE: About
the time of the
first frost,
the leaves and
stems will blacken.
Cut down the
stems and leaves
within a few
inches above
the ground. Remove
debris from the
garden to prevent
any over-wintering
of fungus. Plants
emerge from underground
next spring,
growing into
a larger clump
each year. After
5 or more years,
you can dig and
divide your peony
in the fall to
create more plants.
This is the way
these plants
are currently
propagated.
