Choose a
location in full sun, or at least six hours of sun, to insure
vigorous blooms. Plant in an area with very good drainage.
Standing water will suffocate the roots and is the leading
cause of plant failure. Raised beds or planting on a slope
are ideal. In a few years, your peony will become a large
green, perennial bush with a height of 36 in. so allow a
space of about 3-4 feet between other permanent plantings.
Annuals or perennials and bulbs can be inter-planted with
intersectional peonies while they are young.
Keep
the roots shaded and slightly moist until planting. Herbaceous
peonies prefer a humus rich, sandy loam with a pH of 6.5
to 7.0. Finished compost and lime are two amendments that
are always useful to most soils. A very heavy clay soil
will also require the addition of sand for drainage. The
site you prepare should have good soil at least 18”
deep and 2 ft. in diameter. Herbaceous peonies have
fleshy tuberous roots with buds or “eyes” that
are planted buds up, NO MORE than two inches below ground
level.
Mound the soil and extend the roots. Mix two oz. Of Neptune's
Harvest with two gallons of water and "mud in"
plant to prevent any air pockets at the roots. Deep planting
impedes flowering, so be careful to check that the plant
has not sunk below this level as you water in your plant.
After the ground freezes, mulch well with six inches of
leaves or other material for winter protection. In most
climates, this heavy mulching is only necessary the first
season to prevent heaving.
Remove the
mulch slowly when danger of frost is past. Fertilize with
1 oz. to one gal. fish/seaweed emulsion every two-three
weeks for maximum growth. It is best to “deadhead”
any spent flowers. Water only when the soil feels dry 6”
below the surface. Water at the base of plant, not sprinkling
on the leaves. It is important to have porous soil. Wet
roots lead to decay and is the most common cause of plant
death, so do not over water. In areas of
wet, very cool springs, it is a best to treat the emerging
buds with a biodegradable copper solution such as Soap Shield
(available from Garden’s Alive 812-537-8650) or Basicop,
sold in many garden centers. This simple preventative treatment
will prevent fungus and black spotting on the leaves.
To support
large clumps of peonies, lay a flat piece of 2”chicken
wire, cut to a size of about 2 ft. x 2 ft., carefully over
the new red shoots in spring. This has to be done early
in the season, as soon as the shoots emerge from the ground.
Adjust chIcken wire to allow one shoot to go into one cell
of the wire. As the shoots grow taller, the chIcken wire
will lift up and be a part of the growing plant, settling
under the foliage. Fold down the edges of the wire under
foliage so it is not visible. This will support the stems,
and keep the plant more upright.
About the time
of the first frost, the leaves and stems will blacken. Cut
down the stems and leaves within a few inches above the
ground. Remove debris from the garden to prevent any over-wintering
of fungus. Plants emerge from underground next spring, growing
into a larger clump each year. After 5 or more years, you
can dig and divide your peony in the fall to create more
plants. This is the way these plants are currently propagated.
